Unlike round brilliant cut diamonds however, oval diamonds do not follow a rigid faceting pattern or proportion that makes for a uniform finish. The final shape of the stone is determined by the shape of the rough crystal which may lend itself to a long narrow oval or to a shorter wider shape.

The oval diamond does however share the same number of 58 facets as the round brilliant cut. These vary in size to allow for the widest and longest central section of the stone and decrease in size towards the rounded, narrower ends where the facets become very small and close together. This variation in the faceting gives the oval cut a unique appearance often referred to as a ‘bow tie’ effect across the centre of the stone where the facets are the most open and the amount of light reflected is lower. All oval cut stones will have a bow tie to some degree; however, this can be minimised by skillful cutting and good proportion.